Fabric is the heart and soul of any sewing project. It’s also the most important step in the supply chain of a garment.

Unfortunately, authentic wax print fabrics produced in Europe and Africa have been flooded by cheaper fabric imitations produced mainly in Asia. Fortunately there are some clues you can look for to distinguish the real from the fake.

Cotton

Choosing the right fabric is essential to make sure your garment turns out well. There are four main aspects to consider: Material, Type, Weaving & Physical Properties.

Cotton is one of the most common and versatile fabrics. The key is finding a high quality, ethically produced variety. Look for the words organic, recycled or sustainable on the label to confirm it’s free of pesticides and chemical fertilisers. The staple length of cotton is also important. Choose varieties with longer fibres, such as pima, sea-island and Egyptian cotton, which are known for their strength and durability.

Authentic linen is made from extremely fine fibres extracted from the flax plant and painstakingly spun and woven into long sheets of soft, beautiful and durable cloth. This fabric can be used to create premium Indian wear including kurtis, box pleated skirts and elegant pants. It is a bit heavier than other cotton varieties, and therefore best used in items that require a little more structure.

Linen

Linen is a gorgeous and designer ikat fabric. It’s a bit more expensive than cotton but because it’s so durable, long-lasting, and resistant to tearing, it makes it worth the extra money. It’s important to be able to distinguish real linen from fake because many fabrics that are labelled as linen are actually made of short, low-quality fibres (which are much cheaper to produce).

Look for a natural color, strong fibers, and the presence of slubs (small bumps throughout the fabric that give it its unique appearance). If you see linen with a flat texture without slubs, you are most likely looking at a synthetic fabric. Linen is also highly permeable and moisture-wicking. Try wetting the fabric and seeing how it reacts; it should quickly absorb liquids and move them away from the skin.

It’s also good to test how the fabric feels on the skin before you buy it, particularly if you are considering buying linen sheets. Authentic linen will feel soft and smooth to the touch, but not scratchy or rough. If the sheet you’re considering buying feels scratchy or rough to the touch, it probably came from a factory that used short flax fibres. Look for a higher lea count, which will be stated on the product details page; the higher the count, the finer the fabric.

Silk

A naturally generated fibre from the silkworm, Silk fabric is a go-to choice for festive and special occasion garments like choli, lehengha, anarkali gown or floor-length dresses. However, it can also be used in premium garments like kurtas, dupattas and palazzo pant. Authentic Silk fabrics take dyes well and sew up beautifully. It is breathable, soft and comfortable to wear in any weather. Look for Oeko-Tex (r) Standard 100 certification, which is intensive lab-tested to guarantee that the fabrics are safe of irritants and harmful substances.

Broadcloth, which is very similar to cotton sateen, is another good choice for blouses and dresses as it is lightweight and breathable. Also, check out if the fabric you’re buying is made from sustainable sources and has a label that certifies it as such.

Wool

Wool can be a great choice for everyday clothing, especially sweaters or base layers. It’s soft, breathable and hypoallergenic. There are many types of wool fabric, ranging from soft and luxurious (merino wool) to dense and water-resistant (tweed). A high quality wool will have tight fibres with no loose strands or gaps between them. It’s also important to choose a fabric that is chemical-free and has been dyed ethically. Check out this post on How to Choose Authentic Fabrics for more tips.

Note: Before choosing a natural, eco-friendly or sustainable material, it’s essential to set your priorities and establish which garments are most important for you to invest in.